Contemporary Bosnian Cuisine
Contemporary Bosnian cuisine is primarily the result of Oriental cuisine, which had a strong influence on its formation from the 15th until the mid-19th century. Only in the second half of the 19th century did the influence of other cuisines begin, primarily Western ones, with the arrival of Austro-Hungarian rule in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Today, it is difficult, almost impossible, to precisely discern through the historical layers what Bosnian medieval cuisine might have been or what its specific features were within the context of European medieval gastronomy. Medieval Bosnian sources largely remain silent about what appeared on the menus of the Bosnian ruling dynasty, the nobility, and the common people. Nevertheless, based on archaeological findings and written sources, we are somewhat better informed about the tableware used at Bosnian royal courts and at noble and common tables. Only after the fall of the Bosnian Kingdom in the 15th century and the establishment of Ottoman rule can we speak much more reliably, on the basis of historical sources and living tradition, about Bosnian cuisine in concrete terms – through dishes, menus, and recipes.
Gastronomy of Sarajevo’s Bazaar
For this reason, this content is dedicated to Sarajevo’s bazaar, that is, to some of its segments and characteristics. It was precisely within this space that Bosnian cuisine was shaped and preserved, and its full experience can still be found today in numerous Sarajevo aščinicas, buregdžinicas, bakeries, imarets, confectioneries, kahvedžinicas, taverns, and contemporary restaurants of various categories, which preserve Bosnian culinary tradition to a greater or lesser extent.
Similar to the process that occurred with metal, leather, textile, and other crafts, the Oriental-Ottoman influence is also present in gastronomy, as well as in the very language of Bosnian cuisine. To speak of Bosnian cuisine today means using a large number of words of Oriental origin, from Arabic, Turkish, Persian, and even Greek etymological sources. These orientalisms have become so deeply rooted in the lexicon of the Bosnian language over centuries that they often have no appropriate equivalent, which further confirms the deep interweaving of language and cuisine in Bosnian cultural tradition.
Traditional Hospitality Establishments
Traditional hospitality establishments in Sarajevo, as well as in Bosnia and Herzegovina in general, developed as distinct entities, each with a clearly defined role in the everyday life of the city. Among them, aščinicas stand out as traditional restaurants; buregdžinicas, where pies with various fillings are prepared and sold; halvedžinicas as confectioneries; bozadžinicas, where boza and salep are prepared and sold; kahvedžinicas as coffeehouses; mejhandžinicas, where wine and other alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages were served, often accompanied by live music and song; and ekmešćinicas as bakeries. Of all these establishments, aščinicas played a decisive role in preserving the tradition of Bosnian cuisine, which is why they are given special attention, together with kahvedžinicas and bozadžinicas where hot beverages were served.
The Aščija Guild and the Development of Sarajevo’s Aščinicas
The first independent aščinica in Sarajevo is mentioned in 1530, while it is reliably known that as early as 1462 one aščinica operated as part of Isa-bey’s musafirhana at Bendbaša. From the 16th century onward, Sarajevo acquired a large number of aščinicas distributed throughout different parts of the bazaar. Aščijas were organized into an aščija guild, that is, a cooperative, and it is very likely that buregdžijas and halvadžijas also belonged to this guild. Through the activity of aščinicas, Bosnian culinary culture experienced significant development, especially during the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.
Basic Characteristics of Bosnian Cuisine
During this period, Bosnian cuisine acquired its fundamental characteristics. One of them is the fact that it does not use roux, which is why dishes are prepared slowly, over low heat, and in their own juices – saft. This lengthy process began in the aščija mutvak (kitchen) and ended at the aščija odžak, a semi-open heated counter where the food gently simmered and always remained juicy, warm, and freshly prepared. Culinary experts often compare Bosnian cuisine to French cuisine precisely because it does not use roux but relies on long cooking in its own juices, not because of similar dishes, but because of a similar approach to time and cooking technique.
It is important to emphasize that Bosnian cuisine partially distanced itself from Oriental cuisine when it comes to seasoning. While many Oriental cuisines make extensive use of strong and exotic spices, this is not the case with Bosnian cuisine, which has largely remained, at least in terms of seasoning, faithful to Central European culinary tradition. It is precisely this balance that makes Bosnian dishes rich, but not aggressive in flavor.
Papaz-Ćevap
Papaz-ćevap is one of the traditional varieties of Bosnian ćevap dishes, developed under strong Oriental-Ottoman influence. It is prepared from finely chopped veal, with red and white onions, tomatoes, and mild spices, and is cooked slowly in its own juices. The dish is known for its juicy sauce and moderate aroma, which combines Oriental techniques with Bosnian culinary restraint. It is traditionally served with lemon.
Bosnian Pot (Bosanski Lonac)
Bosnian pot is one of the few dishes that originates from the period of the medieval Bosnian state. It emerged as a nourishing meal for miners and is prepared by long cooking of meat and vegetables in an earthenware pot, over low heat and without roux. This dish best illustrates a fundamental characteristic of Bosnian cuisine – patience, simplicity, and richness of flavor developed in its own juices.
Coffeehouses and Coffee Culture
Coffeehouses in Sarajevo appeared very early, shortly after their emergence in Istanbul in 1534. It is reliably known that Sarajevo already had a coffeehouse in 1592, significantly earlier than Paris or Vienna. They were spread throughout the bazaar, as well as in residential neighborhoods. Coffeehouse owners had their own guild, which testifies to the well-developed and organized nature of this activity. Coffeehouses were, and remain, extremely important places where coffee is drunk, conversations take place, tobacco is smoked, stories are told, and music and song are performed. In Bosnia, coffee represents an indispensable part of ćejf, business agreements, and everyday social interaction.
Traditional Dishes and Sweets
Bosnian cuisine includes a large number of dishes and sweets that have remained on aščinica menus for centuries. Among them are soups and pies, various types of ćevap dishes, duck, tripe, bamya, dolmas, pilaf, halva, kadaif, and other dishes. A special place is held by zahlade, a general term for liquid and semi-liquid sweet dishes that are consumed almost daily. The most well-known zahlada is hošaf, a compote made from cooked dried fruit, most commonly dried plums, apples, and pears, and served cold.
Đulbešećer and the Custom of Welcoming Guests
Đulbešećer, a sweet preserve made from the petals of the rose Rosa damascena, holds a special place in Bosnian tradition. It was served to guests as a sign of welcome, accompanied by a glass of water, with the belief that its beneficial taste and aroma uplift the spirit and make conversation easier. This custom is still present in Sarajevo households that value tradition.
Bozadžinicas and Traditional Beverages
The first bozadžija and boza shop in Sarajevo is mentioned as early as 1489. In these shops, two traditional beverages were prepared: boza and salep. Boza is made from millet or corn flour and is consumed as a cold, mildly sour drink, while salep is a warm, sweet beverage prepared during the winter period and associated with traditional beliefs and customs.
